Farrow Dress

Farrow with No Pockets

In our first Farrow Dress variation we’re going to show you how to omit the pockets on your Farrow. A few people asked why anyone would want a dress without pockets on Instagram and I can think of a few. Little known fact, or maybe not I’m not sure, but I wore a pocketless Farrow for my wedding back in February. I used silk 4-ply silk crepe de chine, omitted the pockets, and lined it with silk charmeuse for that dress. I think that omitting the pockets made the dress a bit more formal and suited to the occasion. When made in thin fine fabrics the pockets can collapse a bit, which I love in rayon but not as much in my wedding dress. In addition to that, if you’re working with a more difficult fabric like the silk crepe de chine used in the sample above, it will definitely be an easier project to omit the pockets.

To begin, you’ll need to draw a line across the pocket stitching lines on both the front bodice and front skirt pieces. This will demarcate the pockets, shown in blue above, from the dress, shown in white.

Trim along the line you drew to separate the pockets from the dress pattern pieces. Discard the pockets.

Add a 1/2″ seam allowance to the diagonal waist seams formed by removing the pockets. You will now assemble the front dress by following the same instructions as the back.

So there you have it, easy as pie! Honestly easier than pie I’d say because I’ve ruined quite a few of those in my time. If you have any questions let us know in the comments below and don’t worry, we’re planning on showing you how to line the dress in a future post.

 

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Farrow Dress

Farrow Dress Roundup

Now that the Farrow Sew-Along has wrapped up and we’re about to get into a few Farrow Variations we thought it would be fun to showcase a few of your Farrows popping up on social media! By far the best part of every pattern release is seeing the garments popping up on Instagram and the like.

@bella_zilber | @emi_uchida_

@nf_merritts@dennmanto.christiane

@fancyjaime | @besabelle

@ivyarch@ernestflaggsews

@needlework_hamilton | @make_something

There are so many amazing dresses it was hard to choose just a few so make sure that you click over to Instagram to check out the full #farrowdress hashtag. Have you tried the Farrow pattern yet?

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News

Your Favorites are Back in Stock!

We’ve been getting a lot of emails asking when we’d be getting a restock of certain patterns so I wanted to let you all know that the Cascade, Willow, Farrow, Linden, Lark and Stowe paper patterns are now back in stock!

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Journal Entry

2016 in Review: Sewing Tutorials + Free Patterns

It’s the time of year to reflect and look back at what we accomplished and process things that we want to change or improve on. Improving my sewing skills is always something on my list of goals for the new year. Making time to accomplish those goals is another thing on my list. Oh time… where do you go? I have so many large projects that I haven’t even begun to tackle. I have come to the conclusion that it’s better to practice sewing with a project that is smaller in scale. So in 2016 we developed an array of free patterns and sewing tutorials to help us all improve our sewing skills. We hope they helped and that you had fun with them!

Grainline Studio | Tutorials

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The first free pattern and tutorial we created was this Bow Tie Tutorial. It makes an adorable gift for pretty much anyone… children, men, women, and pets!

Grainline Studio | Tutorials

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We created this video on how to make thread chains. These are essential for keeping two layers of fabric together when you still need to allow for movement such as a main fabric and a lining. It’s also an excellent technique for tacking down pockets so that they don’t poke out. You will want to use thread chains when sewing The Cascade Duffle Coat and The Driftless Cardigan.

Grainline Studio | Tutorials

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This tutorial shows you how the professionals get their flat bias necklines and armholes. Our patterns have illustrated instructions on how to do this but, there is nothing like a step by step photo tutorial!

Grainline Studio | Tutorials

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In the spring we posted this cinch pouch tutorial. These little guys make great pouches for just about anything that needs to be organized. I use mine as a make up bag when I  travel and I have a super sized one that I store my yarn collection in. This is a great project for beginner sewers.

Grainline Studio | Tutorials

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Then in the summer we created this free apron pattern. It’s the perfect pattern to practice making pockets. For even more practice you can improvise and add as many pockets as you like.

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Journal Entry

2016 in Review: Textile Tutorials

One of our most fun adventures in the studio in 2016 was creating, On the Surface, our textile tutorial series. There are so many techniques that you can use to customize your fabric at home. Stay tuned because there are more coming in 2017!

Grainline Studio | Willow Tank

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The first tutorial we put together was potato stamping. The print possibilities are endless with this technique. I used French fries, because… why not?!

Grainline Studio | Scout Tee

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Our next tutorial was natural dyeing with avocado pits. When boiled avocado pits make a beautiful shade of blush pink. We made our fabric into a Scout Tee.

Grainline Studio | Textile Tutorials

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We are drooling over these two projects that our readers made with our natural dying tutorial! Are there any surface design or dyeing tutorials you’d love to see next year?

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Journal Entry

2016 in Review: Pattern Variations

There are hundreds of pattern variation tutorials that we would love to post! There is so much potential for each pattern. We love doing pattern variations because so many ideas come from you! It’s really fun to brainstorm with our community. In 2016 we came up with several. We only wish we could have done more, that’s the goal for 2017!

Grainline Studio | Archer Button Up

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We started off 2016 with this color blocked Archer Button Up tutorial. It’s the perfect way to add a pop of color to your Archer.

Grainline Studio | Archer Popover

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Then we released the Archer Popover Variation Pack. It’s the Archer on casual Friday. Still elegant but has a more relaxed vibe. And it’s perfect over jeans!

Grainlne Studio | Archer Popover

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After we released the Archer Popover Variation Pack we had a lot of people wanting to know how to make a pleat at the bottom of the placket. Because it’s super cute and adds interest! We love how it turned out and have plans to sew up more samples this spring.

Grainline Studio | Alder Shirtdress

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In the spring we released the The Alder Shirt Dress as a tunic shirt. The Chicago spring is probably the toughest season to get through. We really needed to channel some summer warmth.

Grainline Studio | Willow Tank & Dress

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Then we created the cropped Willow Tank tutorial. It’s nice and breezy in the summer and is perfect paired with anything high-rise.

Grainline Studio | Archer and Alder Version 2

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Then we combined the Archer Button Up Shirt and Alder Shirtdress for the second time to create a loose fitting shirt dress. This second method is easier than the first one we shared with you a couple of years ago.

Grainline Studio | Hemlock Tee

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Finally we spruced up one of our favorite patterns the Hemlock Tee. It’s a free pattern that you get when you subscribe to our mailing list. It has evolved into so many different tees over the years. This last iteration is a sweater version with a split hem. Perfect for staying cozy this winter.

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Journal Entry

2016 in Review: Pattern Releases

This has been a really exciting and rewarding year for us. We worked together, combining our talents and released four new patterns. Releasing patterns is such a fun and creative process. For the most part! After the drafting and testing part is done we come up with a name for the pattern. We brainstorm for a few weeks and come up with something that reflects on the function of the garment and where and how we imagine it being worn. Then we work on the blurb, at that point we are already so attached to the pattern it’s like writing a short biography. The most exciting part about releasing patterns into the world is seeing how you create truly unique and personal garments. Thanks for keeping us inspired! Here are the four patterns that we released in 2016. Grainline Studio | Driftless Cardigan

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The first pattern we released in 2016 was the Driftless Cardigan. Jen wanted to make a cozy, multi-seasonal cardigan with super cute pockets. We are all nostalgic about cabin life, so we named it after the Driftless region in Wisconsin. It’s perfect for walks in the woods and nights by the fire. I hope to make a few in 2017. That’s my goal!

Grainline Studio | Willow Tank Dress

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Next up was the Willow Tank & Dress. Photographing our Willows at The Garfield Park Conservatory was by far the best day of the year for us! It was magical spending the day exploring the conservatory in our new handmade outfits. There is a lack of nature here in Chicago, especially in early spring. Spending the day at the conservatory transported us from city life into nature. Where ever you live I highly recommend visiting your local conservatory and breathing in the freshest air!

Grainline Studio | Penny Raglan

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Our next release was the Penny Raglan. Jen has made several for herself over the years. She received countless requests for the pattern. Poof, wish granted! It’s the perfect loose fitting raglan tee. Unbelievably flattering when worn with jeans…

The Farrow Dress | Grainline Studio

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Here it is, the last pattern we released in 2016. The Farrow Dress. It’s both elegant and interesting. The diagonal pockets are our favorite feature. It was a serious challenge keeping it a secret. We look forward to seeing your Farrow Dresses in 2017!

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Farrow Dress

Farrow Sew-Along: Hems & Finishing

Alright, last day of the Farrow Sew-Along! Today we’ll be talking about hems and finishing – lets dive in! Hemming is quite easy for the Farrow. Simply fold and press up 1/4″ then fold and press that up 1/4″ again. You can see above that I serged my hem before folding. You don’t need to do this, I just did because it was quicker than cutting all the frayed threads from handling this garment so much over the course of the sew along.

Once everything is folded and pressed, step over to your machine and stitch along the loose edge to secure the hem in place.

Give the hem a press after stitching and let’s move onto finishing the facings up.

To secure the back edge of the neckline facing, simply hand stitch the dress and facing together, securing each end with a knot. Repeat for the other side of the dress.

Next we’ll need to tack the facing down at the seam allowances to keep it from shifting in and out of the garment. Tack it just through the seam allowance at the center front and both shoulders. You can see above that I do a slightly larger tack, I find this gives the facing a slight amount of wiggle room as you move so that there isn’t a point at which the facing tugs hard at the dress.

Next we’ll be securing the hook and eye to the dress. I like to align mine at the top of the dress and just slightly inside the edge of the dress.

After the hook is attached, align the eye and sew it in place. Make sure that no matter what’s happening on the inside of the garment that the top of the dress aligns when the hook and eye is closed.

And that’s it for the Farrow Sew-Along! Hope you found the sew-along informational and maybe even learned something new! Make sure that you share your Farrows using the hashtags #farrowdress and #grainlinestudio or tag us @grainlinestudio so that we can see what you make!

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Farrow Dress

Farrow Sew-Along: Neckline Binding

In today’s edition of the Farrow Sew-Along we’ll be assembling and attaching our neckline facing. To begin, sew the front and back neckline facings together at the shoulder seams as shown above.

Press the seam allowances open and finish the outer edge if desired. I’ve serged mine here but since the facing is interfaced, it shouldn’t fray.

Align the facing with the neckline with right sides facing. Match the shoulder seams of the facing and dress. At the center back you’ll want the half inch seam allowance of the facing to wrap around the edge of the center back as shown above.

Stitch along the neckline from one side of the center back to the other. Clip the corners at the center back, grade the facing seam allowance, and clip the seam allowances approximately every 1″.

Press both the facing and the seam allowance up away from the dress. Understitch around the edge of the facing through both the facing and seam allowance as we did for the armhole / sleeve facings.

Roll the facing and seam line towards the underside of the garment and press.

Your neckline facing is now attached! We’ll tackle tacking it in place during our final installment of the sew-along.

 

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Farrow Dress

Farrow Sew-Along: View B Sleeves

In this segment of the Farrow Sew-Along we’ll be inserting our sleeves for the Farrow View B. To begin, place two lines of basting stitches along the sleeve cap between the front and back notches leaving long tails on either end. I like to place mine at 3/8″ and 5/8″ so that the 1/2″ seam line falls between them.

Fold your sleeve with right sides together and stitch along the underarm seam.

Finish your seam if desired and press it towards the back of the garment.

To prep for inserting your sleeve, lay your sleeve and dress out so that the dress is inside out and the sleeve is right side out.

Place the sleeve inside of the dress and align the underarm seams and notches. The top notch of the sleeve will align with the shoulder seam of the dress.

Pull on the thread tails of the gathering stitches to lightly gather the sleeve cap into the armhole.

Stitch around the armhole along the 1/2″ seam line. There should be no puckers in the sleeve cap once inserted, all the gathering from the previous step should be eased in.

Once the sleeves are inserted you can finish the armhole seam if desired. I serged around mine here.

To create the sleeve facings, align the two short ends with right sides of the fabric facing and stitch along the seam lines.

Press the seam allowances towards the back of the garment, or open if you prefer.

At this point I like to fold down the top 1/2″ seam allowance of the facings. It’s a little easier now than after it’s attached to the dress.

Align the facings with the raw edge of the sleeve with right sides facing and seam allowances matched. Stitch around the sleeve.

Grade the seam allowances of the facings.

Press both the facings and seam allowances down away from the sleeve.

Understitch just next to the seam line through both the facings and the seam allowance. This helps to force the seam line to turn to the underside of the garment and gives a more professional finish.

Press the facings up and stitch the edge you folded down earlier to the sleeve to finish.

That’s it! Next up will be finishing the neckline, see you back here for that!

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