Alder Sew Along Day 11: Armhole Binding

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Today in the Alder Sew Along we’re binding armholes. To follow along click below!

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Begin by sewing the two ends of each bias armhole strip together at 1/4,” then press the seam open.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Pin a bias strip around the armhole of the dress.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Stitch around the armhole at 1/4″

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Grade the seam allowance by trimming the binding seam allowance in half.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Clip around the armhole to, but not through, the stitching line about every inch or so.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Press the binding and seam allowance away from the dress.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Understitch the bias facing by stitching close to the seam through the binding and the seam allowance. I stitched at roughly 1/16″ here but only stitch as close as you feel comfortable.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Press the binding to the underside of the garment making sure to roll the seam to the underside as well. The understitching you just put in will help this along tremendously.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Fold the raw edge of the binding under, press, and pin in place.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

Stitch around the edge of the binding. Again I stitched at 1/16″ but only stitch as close as you feel comfortable.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

That’s it, this is what the underside of the binding should look like…

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 11 | Armhole Binding

…and this is what the outside of the binding looks like. That’s it for today, just buttons/buttonholes and the hem left!

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8 Responses to Alder Sew Along Day 11: Armhole Binding

  1. karina lane says:

    You make it look so easy!

  2. Deirdre says:

    This was the part of the make I found unexpectedly the most difficult! Is there any reason you did not press the binding (folded in on otself both sided) before attaching to the armhole?
    Probably because I am a newbie sewer but I found that rolling the raw edge of the binding under resulted in the seam line sloping and looking kind of sloppy for me, also I found it more difficult to make the left and right armholes look identical.

    • Jen says:

      I’m not quite sure what you mean by the seam lines sloping. If you feel more comfortable pressing the binding first I’d say go for it. The reason I don’t do it first is that the binding could stretch resulting in the binding not fitting as easily, and also because it’s a fiddly task since you have to press the edges under, then you’ll end up pressing again at each step when attaching it to the armhole. It’s all personal preference though, this is what works for me.

      • Deirdre says:

        I suppose what i mean is that if I don’t pre-press then they end up being turned under in an uneven way. This is most likely due to my inexperience! I really enjoyed making my alder and can’t wait to make some more soon, thanks Jen for the response and the great pattern.

  3. Nicole says:

    That looks so beautiful on the inside! What a great way to do seam binding!

  4. Tammy says:

    I concur. This looks so neat. On another topic, I am wondering if you are going to to a Fall 2014 capsule wardrobe post? I do look forward to your insight to the new season.

  5. ginny says:

    I’m starting my first garment project and have been trying to figure out how to do necklines & armholes and I think this will come in handy! Thank you so much!!

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