Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

Grainline Studio | Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

Okay, are you all ready for the tutorial portion of this variation? Here we go! Crazy patterned tights are optional, you will need the Scout Tee pattern however.

Grainline Studio | Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

Figure 01 | Begin by tracing off your sleeve pattern. Draw a line from the center of the shoulder down the length you’d like your sleeve to be.

Figure 02 | Determine the width you’d like your sleeve opening to be and square a line at the bottom of the vertical line you drew in Figure 01. This line should be centered.

Grainline Studio | Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

Figure 03 | Connect the underarm points of the sleeve cap line with the edges of your horizontal line.

Figure 04 | Erase the unneeded sleeve lines and square a small line out from the sleeve seams at the hem edge.

Grainline Studio | Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

Figure 05 | Redraw the hem edge with a slightly curved line that adheres to the square marks you made in Figure 04. This prevents the hem of the sleeve from meeting at an angle along the underarm seam.

Figure 06 | Erase the original hem line. This is your new sleeve.

Grainline Studio | Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

Figure 07 | One last step. Fold the sleeve in half with the underarm seams together. Your seams should be the same length and if not, make any needed corrections now.

That’s all! Now, if you’re wondering what the reason you can’t just lengthen the sleeve along the original hem line is, it’s because the original sleeve is a cap sleeve. By their nature, the hem line is lower along the underarm seam and higher at the outside center of the sleeve. Because of this if you simply lengthened the sleeve you wouldn’t have an even hem, resulting in extra fabric along the inside of the sleeve and most likely some pretty odd pulling. Luckily this method is super easy and you can customize it depending on where you’d like the sleeve to fall along your arm.

As usual, if you have any questions just let me know in the comments below.

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43 Responses to Pattern Tutorial | Long Sleeved Scout Variation

  1. lisa g says:

    awesome! glad this is so easy to change up, i’ll definitely give it a try soon!

  2. Jo says:

    yay! Thank you!

  3. Tanya M says:

    Thank you for this detailed tutorial and for explaining the whys! I have a question about lengthening the bodice pieces to tunic length. Do you just add length at the shorten/lengthen lines or do you also add length at the hemline, following the angle of the sides? Thanks in advance!

  4. Kelly says:

    Thank you for this! I absolutely love these sort of little pattern drafting lessons. You’re making pattern making less of a scary mystery, one bit at a time!

  5. emily says:

    Yay! I’ve actually got the perfect fabric for this that’s been languishing in the stash pile for a month or so – a black cotton with a really sharp white grid print.

    I really love the longer hem length with the 3/4 sleeves – how much did you lengthen the body of your Scout?

    • I can’t quite remember how much I lengthened the body, I’m pretty sure I did something like 32″ from HPS to hem? It’s at the bottom of my laundry bin now or I’d go measure it for you, sorry!

  6. Susan says:

    Thanks so much! Easy and do-able! Love it!

  7. sallie says:

    Great tutorial! Thanks Jen! Also – omg – the tonal pattern bomb of an outfit is totally inspirational!

  8. Erin says:

    Wow, thanks so much for the instructions on how to adjust ourselves. This is super helpful for figuring out similar adjustments later. Learning!

  9. Elena says:

    Thanks so much for posting this! I’ve been wanting to try this for a long time.

  10. Chris says:

    LOVE the Scout Tee! I’ve made several versions and it’s my TNT now.
    Thanks for a great pattern…
    🙂 Chris

  11. June says:

    Oh golly, I so need to make another one of these… Winter Scouts! Take over the world!

  12. Ijeoma says:

    Would it be too much to ask for a printable sleeve pattern so super novices can make this new sleeve?

  13. Ruby BUGARIN says:

    Thanks for the tutorial. This will be my fourth scout tee! Which line should I use for the grain line. The old one or the one used to elongate the sleeve

  14. KFlash says:

    What kind of fabric did you use here?

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  17. Brenna says:

    I just used this for my Scout pattern dress. So easy. thank you! Also, sorry. I totally copied your look. You have such good taste though!

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  20. Ruth says:

    I started sewing about 6 weeks ago and your scout tee was my first solo ( successful) pattern. So easy to understand the instructions. Going to start on the tiny pocket tank and then maybe this adjustment. THANK YOU!!!

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  25. Carly says:

    Cool! Any idea how much additional fabric you needed compared to the original pattern requirements?

    • Jen says:

      I don’t know off hand but based on the measurement of my arm (24″) I’d say you’ll need about 26″ or 3/4″ for the long sleeve.

  26. Chana says:

    Hi! I’m making my first scout tee and I’m really excited about this pattern and eager to make up some of the variations. I sewed up a muslin to check the fit and found that while the 10 fits great in the bust and torso, it is tight across the shoulders. I’m a relatively new sewist and I’m wondering if it would work cut a 12 on top and then just hop over to 10 lines at the underarm/side seam, or if I need to do something more sophisticated to get the fit right? Thanks!

  27. Dectora says:

    Hi! I made your TPT and love it. Is the fit in the body of the Scout tee roughly the same? If not, could you briefly summarize the difference(s)? I am also wondering if you have tried adding sleeves to the TPT – would it be difficult for a beginner sewist? I just love the neckline and since I’ve already made one that fits me well, it would be easy to do it again… Thanks!

    • Jen says:

      The Scout tee doesn’t have darts, and the Tiny Pocket does, which is the major difference but but fit of the two is a bit different through the body. I haven’t added sleeves to the Tiny Pocket, the straps aren’t set up for a sleeve to attach, meaning they don’t extend to the edge of the shoulder so it would be a bit awkward to attach sleeves to the pattern as is. You’d also need to draft a sleeve in addition to heavily altering the armscye which is a bit of work. It might be easier to trace the neckline onto a pattern that already has sleeves.

  28. socialcaro says:

    Hi Jen, I´m starting sewing and I chose this pattern to be my first project!! I found you on instagram and loved your patterns, I wonder if the scout tee can be made sleeveless, thx!

    • Jen says:

      Hi! The Scout is drafted to have sleeves so it might be a bit awkward to just remove them without making any changes. I’d recommend doing a muslin as you may need to reduce some gaping in the armholes as well as take a bit off the shoulder edge of the shoulder seam.

  29. Vic says:

    Hi Jen,

    I’m keen to do a long sleeve version, I’ve been working on my first muslin today. I just noticed you say to adjust the original sleeve hem width – because it makes it a cap sleeve. If i wanted to make a short sleeve version that isn’t a cap sleeve, would i just need to adjust that outward a touch? alternatively i’m making a size 10 could i drop the cap down to an 8, but leave the rest of the sleeve a 10?

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