Alright, here we go with the sewing portion of the Madewell Scout Variation. If you missed the pattern tutorial you can find it here. For this tutorial you’ll need the following supplies…
- Scout Tee pattern altered using the tutorial found here
- Fabric – I used Robert Kauffman’s 6.5oz Indigo Denim
- Scissors, thread, pins, sewing machine…you know, the usual
Start sewing according to the Scout Tee instructions. The original Madewell top has faux flat felled seams throughout the garment. To achieve this finish, begin by sewing your seam as normal.
Serge your seam (alternately you can use a pinking shears or zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to keep the fabric from fraying), press the seam allowance to one side, and stitch through the seam allowance and top 1/4″ from the seam, anchoring the seam allowance. This is a faux flat felled seam.
Next we’ll tackle the front V opening. We’re going to do finish this opening much the way you would finish a continuous sleeve placket. To start, clip to, but not through, the point you marked as the point of your V.
Cut a strip of 1″ wide bias tape long enough to span the opening. You can see in the above photo that the bias tape and seam allowance of the V meet except for a small wedge in the center by my thumb. This is the part without proper seam allowance that you clipped open in the above step, it will sit 1/4″ away from the edge of the bias binding. Sew from one edge to the other making sure to catch the tip of the V at the center. For more detailed instructions on sewing a continuous sleeve placket, see this tutorial.
Next grade the seams and press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the top.
Understitch and fold the binding to the wrong side of the garment. Press the raw edge of the binding under and pin.
Sew along the edge of the binding. Now you have your V opening!
To finish the rest of the neckline, you’ll follow the instructions included with the Scout with this one exception. When you get to the edges of the V opening, leave a bit of fabric over the edge as in the lower edge in the photo. This will be tucked up into the binding creating a finished the finished edge at the top of this photo.
Now to create the sleeve cuff. Insert your sleeves according to the directions in the Scout instructions. Fold up the sleeve along the new sleeve length line you marked on the pattern. Give the folded edge a good press.
Fold under your 1/4″ hem allowance along the raw edge, press.
Next fold down the 1/2″ hem and press in place.
Fold the hem edge down to meet the new sleeve length you pressed earlier.
Tuck the new sleeve length edge into the hem edge and pin in place catching only the hem edge and sleeve, not the cuff.
Fold the sleeve down and out of the way, stitch along the edge of the hem anchoring the hem in place. You may want to do a small bar tack at the underarm of the cuff to keep it from folding down while being worn.
Give your cuffs and shirt a final press and you’re done!